Sunday, November 25, 2012

Back in Ol Mexico

0845 Nov 18:    Up at 0600 this AM with hopes of getting a picture of the sunrise.  Yesterday, it was pretty spectacular!  Today, a non event.  That would explain why you don't see it here........   Will try again.

We had a pretty nice and easy 4 day drive to Mexico.  The first day was a bit hectic as we had to go to Freemont near San Francisco to buy foam for our cockpit cushions, but they are oh so nice to sit on now.  The highlight of the trip had to be spending the second night at the Colorado Belle in Laughlin, NV - a fine reminder of days past on the Harley.  And a great room for only $30 to boot!  The Camry turns out to be the perfect cruiser for us.  Even fully loaded, which I assure you it was, the car was agile, comfy, and so powerful that I liked the two lane highways best - passing cars with this Camry is another fine reminder of the Harley.  And it still gave us better than 30 mpg.  What a deal.



Here's IRIE where she spent the Summer in dry storage.  The great cover that Hector made for us in La Paz last year worked outstanding.  Underneath, she was pretty clean and definitely protected from the Summer sun.  I wonder if any of the power boat germs from the fishing boat next in the lineup rubbed off?






Highway boat


We were four days in the work yard sanding and painting IRIE's underwater parts. Then, on the 7th of Nov she took to the highway for the trip to the marina where we've been recomissioning since.


It's too bad you can't see beyond the snapshot here.  It's really pretty bizarre looking.




I had all the good intentions for updating the blog back on the 18th when the above was written, but one thing after another..........   today is the 23rd.  Last night we dined on big fat very fresh shrimp in a stir fry with no dressing or gravy but rum cake for dessert.  Ummm.  We knew it was Thanksgiving though, thanks to a skype video phone call with Jenifer and Kristen and Elan the day before.  I suspect C will have something to say about that, so I'll just move on.

We've had a real mix of weather here.  Some days are so hot and humid by 10:30 that we just want to crawl into a shady spot and hide.  Other days, mostly the ones with clouds, have been downright near perfect, even for working.


This afternoon we're taking it easy.  The list is now very short, so while I'm typing, C is enjoying the other side of the cabin. 

We'll be having a meeting of the minds this afternoon with Greg and Janis from s/v Gitana, but I'm pretty sure we're going to sail out of San Carlos on Sunday for the Baja on the other side of the Sea.  It will be about a hundred miles (20 hours) on an overnight cruise with a near full moon.  Should be outstanding as the wind promises to be quiet.  We look forward to living at anchor again as we bounce down the coast to La Paz probably two weeks away.  Until then, there will be little or no internet, but I promise to get some shots of the beautiful anchorages we'll be enjoying.  E

Monday, March 12, 2012

More San Carlos

Gilberto & Gustavo stripping varnish
Ready for the trip to dry land

Leaving water behind

Highway boat?

San Carlos Marina Seca ( dry )
The days are counting down!  We had hoped to "hitch" a ride from someone travelling by car to Tuscon AZ but the weather seems to be keeping people returning to San Carlos waiting in a holding pattern on the other side of the sea.  So, we will be travelling by bus on Thursday night (do any of you remember our last bus trip??) to Tuscon AZ where we will be catching a flight to Medford (via Phoenix & Denver).  I have been promised that the bus will be luxury ride with movies in English, bathrooms that can be used & best of all seats that really sit up!  We also get to skip the every 2 hour inspection routine by the "Federalies".  Yahoo. 


Well, a lot has happened in the few days since Claudia wrote the above.  We're home!!

Preparing a boat for dry storage in San Carlos is a lot more involved than what we had to do to leave Sojourner in La Paz.  San Carlos/Guaymas is a lot hotter in Summer, and being a dry (that is, dirt) yard, there were a few new hazards to prepare for. Fine dust that will invade any opening, piece of hardware, or line left exposed.  And a new variety of bugs such as scorpions that will crawl into and nest in thru hulls and such.  And then there is the heat.  We had to be very careful about what we left aboard and where we left it.  Things like some canned foods have been known to explode.  And, any unsecured food left behind would be a magnet for the bugs. 

We had a full boat cover made for IRIE in La Paz which we hope will protect her from the wind and the dust.  And we carefully plugged every thru hull with kitchen scrubbies to keep the bugs out.  We spent the better part of each day in the San Carlos Marina making the preparations so that once we were out of the water there would be mostly just fitting the cover left to do.

In our favor this year, since we are not trying to sell IRIE, we didn't have to remove all our personal stuff.  That had been a BIG job before.  I don't even want to think about doing that on this boat!

Anyway, as you can see in the pictures, IRIE had to become a "Highway Boat" to make the 1/2 mile trip to the storage area.  They floated us onto a flatbed trailer with padded hydraulic arms that held the boat upright, then a front end loader type tractor pushed us on down the road.  We felt like quite the attraction, though in about a month, this scene will be repeated a few times every day. 


San Carlos Marina Hotel courtyard
The bus ride was OK.  Comfortable seats for the 7 hour ride which included one Federal inspection in Mexico and one hour for US Customs.  Compared to the 19 hour ride we did two years ago, well, I bet you can guess.  Even the flights went mostly on schedule, though, I dream of never having to spend another minute in an airport.

Well, as you know, our blog here will likely become pretty quiet for the Summer,  but, even though there is no schedule, we have a lot planned for the next sailing season:  A train ride to 9,000feet to see the Copper Canyon, sailing to Mazatlan and maybe Puerto Vallarta, back across to La Paz for Carnival, then up the Baja again and back across the Sea to San Carlos for Summer storage.

Monday, February 27, 2012

San Carlos

Motorsailing to Santo Domingo

Hola from San Carlos, Sonora, Mexico.  We got here yesterday, a day earlier than we planned  -that weather thing again.  What a great place!  We took a dinghy ride around and took some pics. We have from now until March 7th to get IRIE all ready for the dry storage here which will be very HOT and dusty.  The list has been getting longer each day instead of shorter.  Right now she's getting a spa treatment by a couple of locals.  Body wash and nails buffed and polished. Looking good!

We've managed to visit three local bars/restaraunts so far - all good - and met up with old friends from s/v Circe who we played volleyball with in La Paz a couple years ago.  So much to do, and so little time.  We dedicate ourselves to boat work until mid afternoon each day, then it's time to enjoy ourselves.




Reach out and touch some...
Escorted into Bahia Conception


Hitchhiking to Mulege

From the dinghy in San Carlos
This shot was supposed to be posted after the next one as that would be the way it actually happened, but either way, pretty fun time.
San Carlos harbor entrance


















There were probably 20 dolphin playing around us here in Bahia Conception.  Sorry I couldn't get a better picture of it all.








No one had a working telephone in the little bay we anchored in (el Burro) so we had to hitchhike to Mulege about 16 miles away for supplies.  This was a new experience to say the least!  And yes, we did find a taxi to bring us back.








San Carlos is an exceptionally beautiful place with all sorts of rocks and caves, islands and bluffs, bays and mountains, and homes to match. A small town with a large percentage of Americans in residence.  Most of the locals speak some English which sure makes it easier for us.  It's easy to see why people like it here.

The marina is very nice, but at California prices, it should be.  Yet, the dry storage facility is really quite reasonable at about 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of putting up a boat in La Paz or other ports.  That's one of the main reasons we're here.

So, it's back to work for now.

E
View from the Yacht Club

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Northbound

Anchorage at San Juanico
Loreto from about 4 miles out
More San Juanico
Cruiser's "Shrine?"
This guy will do anything to get his picture on the blog
Fifteen days since we left La Paz, and eleven magnificent anchorages.  What can I say!!

Something has to make up for little or no internet availability, and these places have done it all.  

If you've been receiving the SPOT notices, you know that we've been taking only rather short hops up the coast.  The most recent was a scant 8 miles and the longest has been about 40 miles.  All told, I think we've only covered a couple hundred miles, but we've been in all kinds of scenery and had plenty of good times.

About a week ago, we met Greg and Janis from s/v Gitana who actually sailed aboard IRIE when she was owned by Pete and Sue Simpson and known as "Pipe Dream".  That was in the early nineties and included two separate cruises in and around the Mexican Riviera.  The more I learn about the history of this boat, the more I appreciate her.  And she continues to be good to us.  We're actually getting pretty good at anchoring too.  

Presently, we're at Playa Burro in Bahia Conception.  A totally magnificent place for scenery, with rock islands and quiet little bays everywhere.  This is the home of a fellow named Geary, an American who wakes up at about 3:30 every morning so he can give cruisers who listen to the Sonrisa net on Single Sideband Radio an accurate weather update.  

Every ting is irie, as they say.  C and I are doing well.  It's been a cool Winter for Mexico, but not altogether bad.  It has been very windy, which, of course, compounds the cool temps and makes doing a good job of anchoring all the more important.  But overall, a good time is being had!

Next on the agenda is the 80 mile crossing of the Sea from where we are to San Carlos on the mainland where we will prep, haul, and store IRIE for the Summer.  It looks like this Friday may be a good day/night to make this trip.  Not locked in yet, but you'll see the SPOT notice indicating that we're on the way.  Where's that extra crew when we need him/her?  

Once we get to San Carlos, we figure a week or so to relax and enjoy ourselves get the lay of the land, prep IRIE, and get ourselves a ride to Tuscon where we can fly home to Medford.  Hoping to get home to Grants Pass mid March.  

OK, that's it until we can get online again sometime in San Carlos.  

See ya,

E


Fine dining in Evaristo

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Lovin La Paz

I'm not sure why it's been so difficult to write for the blog lately.  It's not like we've crawled into a hole and been doing nothing.  And there has certainly been no lack of requests for something new to appear on this page.  Plus, the need to post something has been on our list for some time now. I don't know, but since today is something of a sick day, here goes.

Yes, I'm getting over a cold, and Claudia is in the full blown sneezing and sniffling stage.  It has slowed us down some, yet the computer still stares at us and beckons.  Today is another like so many here this season.  The morning started out cool in low 50's, but it is sunny and very promising.  We listen to the AM cruisers net on the VHF radio to find out what is lost and what has been found, who is looking for what service or repair in La Paz, who has come to and who is leaving the fair city, what activities are on for the day, who has what items to sell or trade, and what the weather is expected to be like.  It's sort of like a soap opera.  There's rarely anything actually new or exciting, yet everyone listens just in case.  There is a certain sort of fellowship too.  The net is best enjoyed in the cockpit with a coffee.

Then, as C was feeling poorly, I dinghied in to have coffee on Iver's boat and catch up on the local gossip. On returning, I saw our new neighbor in his dinghy still tied to his boat, so I went over to say hi.  We talked for a while and decided that even though our boats were anchored a bit close to each other, there was probably no cause for concern.  He turns out to be an interesting fellow who has been sailing in the Sea since the mid 90's and we suggest that a meeting later in the day over a couple beers is in order.

On returning to IRIE, it's time for me to do some sanding on the outside teak handrails.  We're sanding down all the exterior varnish in prep for new.  By the time an hour is up, the wind is picking up and I'm getting cold, so I head for the shelter of the cockpit.  Then Bruce from s/v Juce arrives by dinghy and we talk about possible solutions to a chain locker problem I'm trying to resolve.  We talk about going to town together for some lunch, but the whitecaps outside tell me that I'd have to be willing to get wet to make the dinghy ride in and back, so I'll probably not go this time.  In fact, I'll probably not even go visit my neighbor later for the same reason.  So, I go below and read for a while, nap a bit, and then finally, turn on the computer, pray for an internet hookup, and begin writing this.

It seems so lame, having an attitude about the weather.  The sun is shining, it's 70 degrees and we're on the water, IRIE is proving to be all that we hoped she would, so who could complain?  Why don't we just change the subject.

See Maxine!!  It's taken her a while, but now and then we get to see her scoping out life outside the box.  It's good to see her enjoying herself again, and I sense that she's excited about our upcoming journey. You may recall that the reason she was given to us in the first place was because of her need for travel.






As we've been at anchor for about four weeks now, I suppose it's time to write something abut that.  The word that most comes to mind is private.  Not the running around naked on deck kind of private, - it's too cold for that anyway.  No, it's the privacy you get when you simply leave the hustle and bustle of the boatyard / dockside environment.  Folks on the dock whether just wandering around or doing business or on their way up to empty garbage and take a shower are no longer able to interrupt.  Even the simple distraction of the motion or the noise of daily life at the dock is mostly gone.  Maybe a better one word description would be peaceful.  It's been four weeks now since we've heard the boat boys cleaning the big fishing boats with their loud Mexican music / karoke going on.  And it's also a lot harder for friends to stop by for a drink or to say hi too.  Therein lies the other side of the coin.

To sum it up, from my point of view at least, we really enjoy being at anchor.  But in La Paz, where there's so much to do in town, and we have so many friends around,  I believe we'll buy a dock in the future.  That way, when we're anchored somewhere else in a quiet little bay with no one around, we can really enjoy the solitude.  Something we expect to be doing a lot of in the near future.

Junk sailing by in the anchorage at La Paz
Like everything else, the dinghy has it's ups and downs too.  For the first two weeks out here we were in the far side of the anchorage.  That is an area somewhat protected from wind and waves, but maybe a half mile from town and the docks.  While there, we had the 15hp outboard mounted and on those occasions when the sea was flat, we could make that dinghy fly.  At least it seemed like it.  Only once did I open it up all the way, and that was scary fast. Otherwise it was really fun zipping around here and there.  We wanted a hot rod dinghy, and I'd say we got one.  

Another nice surprise has been our TV antenna up in the rigging.  We bring in six Mexican stations clearly.  No, we don't watch much Mexican television, though it's pretty weird to see the Simpsons talking Spanish.  We have been able to watch the NFL every Sunday though.  A bit of home here on board in Mexico.  We're talking about having a Super Bowl party just before heading North in the Sea.

Speaking of heading North, that is still the plan for February.  We have several hundred miles to go against the prevailing winds hoping to reach San Carlos on the mainland around the first of March.  We'll try to post to the blog here once more before we leave, but there will be very little or no internet once we do.  Claudia will keep you posted with the SPOT when we're travelling as she did on the trip down here.  And there are two cities on the way where we should be able to hook up, but this is still the Baja.    E

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Merry Christmas from the City of Peace

Well, it's been a whirlwind of activity for the past - have we really been here for two weeks already?  It's so easy for us to relax and feel at home in La Paz, but so far, we've been trying to take advantage of being tied to a dock. I'll try to give you a run down on what has happened and what we plan for the future.

Cabo was pretty fun.  It was our first time in that City and what a time it was.  Following a week of anchorages in small to nothing fishing villages,  we found ourselves immersed in sensory overload.  Lights, action, and loud music around the clock for three days and nights.  We spent too much, ate well, walked a lot, and slept little (thanks to the loud music).

When it was time to leave, we looked forward to an easy 50 mile day to Los Frailes anchorage.  But the weather and sea had another plan for us.  We were out of the Pacific swell, but strong North winds in the Sea for the past several days - and continuing against all predictions - made the Sea really ugly.  I've heard it described as sailing into a sea of refrigerators, the steep, short waves beat us up.  We thankfully pulled into Marina Cabo del San Jose after only 22 miles.

Following a restful night there, we again headed out for Los Frailes.  Again, with an excellent weather forecast.  Well, we beat ourselves up again for the 25 or so miles but did finally drop the hook in Los Frailes.  The anchorage already held several boats, and to our surprise, our friends on sv Sea Boa were among them.  They had left Mag Bay - 150 miles prior to Cabo San Lucas - two days before us with plans to sail directly to La Paz.  So they had been waiting in Frailes for more than a week for decent weather while we had been partying in Cabo.     That's the best description of the weather this fall that I can give you.


Helping a neighbor
Long story shorter, we did sail into La Paz on
Friday, December 3rd, 1430 nautical miles from San Francisco.  It was by help from a good friend and good fortune that we were allowed a slip in our favorite marina for a month.  At almost $500 US per month, we will only be here for one, but it has been action packed. 

We got the big outboard motor repaired - no, I couldn't get a clear idea of what was wrong - but it now runs beautifully for 600 pesos, about $44.  Built and rigged a mount for the small outboard.  Had new glasses made and remade.  Rebuilt the aft toilet.  Sewed several areas of the furling jib where the threads had rotted away.  Changed engine oil.  Replaced our anchor chain with new (that's 300 feet of 5/16" chain).  Emptied our storage bodega and sold all the excess at a swap meet.  And we're getting our little freezer turned into a refrigerator / freezer, and having a full boat cover made for IRIE.  Whew.  And that's just the stuff I remember.

Emptying out our storage was really interesting and fun.  You recall that before we left Sojourner in April of 2010 we removed all our personal items - and we should have taken a lot more - and put them into storage so we wouldn't have to come to Mexico when she sold.  It was great seeing all our things again and, of course, Maxine was thrilled to be let out and see daylight.  She's been really camera shy as you might imagine, but I'm sure we'll have a photo op soon. 


IRIE from the fourth floor

The mess and confusion of having two of many things aboard is mostly over now, and we're getting down to simply enjoying the City of La Paz.  And, for us at least, that's really easy to do.  For one thing, the weather.  While it's not what most people imagine, the temps are pretty darn near perfect for just living.  A little cool for vacationing perhaps, but upper 50's at night and 75 in the daytime with no rain works for us.  Then there are the people.  The Mexicans are totally friendly and helpful when we treat them with just a bit of respect.  And, it seems, we have friends most everywhere we go here.  Then, to complete the package, there's always something interesting going on. And, if that's not enough, we
Birds eye view
can always go sailing to some very cool cove and
anchor out for some quiet and privacy.

For now, we have 11 days left with dock power, and we intend to use it to operate a heat gun for removing old varnish for one thing.  Yes, it's time to begin some cosmetic improvements.  Then, we plan to move 1/4 mile or so to the harbor anchorage where we will spend the month of January.  We intend to sail North and across to the mainland at San Carlos and Guaymas, but right now it's rather cold in that direction, so we get to stay here a little longer. 

Then, we plan to use the month of February to work our way North in the Sea with day trips and island hops to Santa Rosalia.  From there, we'll cross the Sea to San Carlos on the mainland where we should have a week or so to explore that area and select a place to store IRIE for the Summer.  At that point, we'll be looking for a way home and hope to be back in Grants Pass by mid March for the countdown to GRANDBABY.

E




Sunday, November 27, 2011

Man of War Cove to Cabo San Lucas


Man-Of-War Cove

Live Shrimp on board

We spent 4 days in Man-Of-War cove, which is a small cove located inside of Bahia Magdalena, after an overnight on the ocean from San Juanico.  We were out about 20 miles from land during the trip & witness the passage of the giant cruise ship, shooting stars & lots of wave action from 15 knot winds.  Man-of-War was pretty small but we had a couple of fish taco meals that were great & were able to restock with a few items from their two mercados.  For the people of this town travel is by panga only & they use generators for city lights at night. We were able to catch up with cruisers that we met in Turtle Bay & Emrick worked with another cruiser to fix our engine/water pump issue. 

Dead Shrimp on board

On our way out of Mag Bay we had some fisherman pull up & offer to sell us some fresh shrimp.  We said sure & handed over a large baggie after agreeing on a price.  I was ok with all of that until I dumped the bag of shrimp out in the sink basket & they began to jump around . . . . so I am staring at live shrimp & wondering who I can call to tell me what to do next.  I reminded myself that sailing is about the next new experience (ya, right) so off came the shrimp's heads (which you can see in the pan on the stove).  My killing expertise became fine tuned & I was able to behead the guys with a minimum of trauma  . . . .I hope.  
More Dolphins
Our next bit of fun was traveling with the dophins.  They stayed with us for about 10 minutes which was a record for us.  If you leaned out of the boat you could almost touch them.  They keep up with the pace of the boat while under & over each other for a little added variety in the swim.  We are always sorry to see them go.
Outside Cabo, luxury living
So coming into Cabo we didn't know what to expect.  The last time we sailed down we covered these miles at night & didn't see much.  Cabo begins on the outside of the bay with hotels & some magnificent homes perched on the rocks.  Emrick & I picked out a few we might feel comfortable in.  I wonder what type of guarantee comes from the builder(s) of these homes. ...  I would always be wondering  when the next earthquake would arrive. 

Cabo surrounding us . . .

on all  . . .

We do not have pics of the bay because both of us were probably thinking "holly ____".  We were looking at motor boats, fishing boats, pangas, cruise ships, jet skis, pirate ships, odd looking ships & where the heck is the fuel dock??????  Emrick found the fuel dock, flipped us around, did a "Captain Ron" & slid us right up to the dock.  "We'll take 100 liters of diesel please".  Nice.  What was even nicer was the slip they assigned us.  We have added some pics to the left (or at least I think they will be on the left when I post this) of the scenes around the boat.  In Cabo you are surounded by high class, fairly expensive food, hotels, gambling, jewelry, watches, bars, food, trinkets, food, bars, trinkets, food, bars, trinkets . . . you get the picture.  The stores extend out for about 2 blocks all around the marina & when you step beyond the 2 blocks, poof, you are in Mexico, a lot like LaPaz.  This is motor city folks, with some huge, I mean huge, fishing boats &  sailing vessels.  We took notice of a 175 foot sailboat & went back to take a good look yesterday.  There is no way to put that boat into a camera.  Amazing.  The fenders are as big as a twin bed.  There was a crew of 7 outside "buffing" as we walked by.  Not a bad life.
Anyway, we are leaving for Los Frailes (the Friars) tomorrow am, then on to Ensenada de Los Muertos (Cove of the Dead) the next day & then finally LaPaz.  See you on the blog, C






sides



Sunset after the storm











Dolphins
Ya hooo, running with the dolphins!
Famous rock formation
"La Isla" getting ready to dock