Sunday, December 23, 2012

feliz Navidad

Hooray!!!  We lived through the end of the world, at least here in Mexico.  How are you guys?  Still there?

We sure hope you're all good there at home too.    Actually, we know better as you can clearly see in this shot of our backyard in Grants Pass........it may seem like the end of the world to those who need to do a little more shopping.



















This is our backyard here in La Paz.  Any questions about why we're here?







And, it looks like we'll stay here this season too.  Our friends on Gitana and Sea Boa left for the mainland a couple days ago - in fact they're probably going to reach Isla Isabella tomorrow AM - and we chose not to go along this time.  Not an easy decision, as we've been planning to see Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta this season for some time now.  But, when it was all said and done, neither of us wanted to go all that badly.  Instead, we're going to hang out here where we are very comfortable and life is good and get going on some boat projects.  We have done our share of boat work, but so far, none of it has been cosmetic.  So now we have time to do the varnishing and painting and such that has been neglected.  And hang with friends here in La Paz. 

That being said, it looks like we'll be picking up the anchor tomorrow morning - Christmas eve.  We'll sail to the islands with many anchorages about 25 miles from here to spend 4 or 5 days with friends on Hanali and Solmate.  Hoping to get some good photos to share.  For now, here are some shots from around La Paz.

Dockbird



Where do you suppose the richest man in the world
keeps his boat?


Sunday shopping in La Paz












More shopping
















This is the Malecon on a quiet Sunday afternoon.  It's a miles long boardwalk of hand laid tile at the waters edge.  With artwork and resting places, restaraunts and vendors of all sorts, the malecon is a gathering place as well as a thoroughfare.


The main North South road through the City runs alongside, and parades and celebrations happen here most any time of day or night.



How did they do that?
During Carnival in February, the street is loaded with rides and vendors and games for a couple miles.  Good times, but that's another story




So here's wishing all of you the very best of the season and more fun next year.

Monday, December 10, 2012

San Carlos to La Paz




Yes, you're right of course.  This isn't a sunrise.  It's a sunset.  Just thought you might like to see what it's like here right now......at anchor in La Paz harbor at about 1700 on Sunday.  We'll get to sunrise later.






It was a great trip from San Carlos, but talk about two different worlds. 

We travelled about 260 miles over 11 days, saw friends and some favorite anchorages, had better than average weather, spectacular scenery, fresh dorado til we tired of it, and happy hour most every day at 4:30.  And, except for two days in Puerto Escondido, our feet never touched concrete.  There was no television, mainstream media, cell phones, internet, or any kind of advertising either.  I'll bet most of you have never experienced this kind of disconnect, but you can take my word for it, it's good.  Sorry you missed it.

Then, four days ago, we dropped our hook in La Paz.  We love La Paz, but it's been an almost complete opposite so far.  As you can see above, the scenery is still pretty fine, but most everything else is changed.  As we have projects to complete and no car here, we do a lot of walking.  Still no cell phones, but we have TV on board - all in Spanish of course, but saw the Marquez fight Saturday night and the Packers last night.  The advertising is in Spanish, so of little consequence, but no mainstream media. What a joy!  Thanks to a long walk on Saturday, we now have internet.  That means we can email and update this blog when time permits.  So, as the projects are getting completed, we will return to a much more easygoing pace for the rest of our stay here - probably about another week.





This is what going "uphill" looks like.  It feels about the way it looks too.  Crash, slam, spray.













And this is "downhill", which is mostly what we did last week.  Feels a lot like being in a rocking chair.  Much mo betta than the other.











Sunrise at Puerto Escondido.

As nice as these photos may look, they represent about 20% of the real thing.  I just haven't learned how to get it all into the lens.   I should mention though, that you can double click on these pics to make them bigger if you want.








Sunrise at San Evaristo.








Here's a shot of IRIE at anchor in a place called Candeleros.  Just behind us - already there when we pulled in - is s/v Ballena with friend Dario aboard.  You may recall that we talked about buying Ballena a few years ago.  That was before we saw IRIE of course.  What a nice surprise to see them both!
This one is my personal favorite - 
A moonrise sunset off the bow with s/v Gitana in the background.  This boat is the magic carpet for our friends Greg and Janis who have offered to show us the ropes of cruising the mainland of Mexico in the area of Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan.  C and I are still weighing in on that trip as there are several overnights, rolly anchorages and other yet to be experienced discomforts, and then quite a bit of "uphill" sailing to do  in order to return.  We'll see......        But right now, it's happy hour, so........................hugs to all.     E

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Back in Ol Mexico

0845 Nov 18:    Up at 0600 this AM with hopes of getting a picture of the sunrise.  Yesterday, it was pretty spectacular!  Today, a non event.  That would explain why you don't see it here........   Will try again.

We had a pretty nice and easy 4 day drive to Mexico.  The first day was a bit hectic as we had to go to Freemont near San Francisco to buy foam for our cockpit cushions, but they are oh so nice to sit on now.  The highlight of the trip had to be spending the second night at the Colorado Belle in Laughlin, NV - a fine reminder of days past on the Harley.  And a great room for only $30 to boot!  The Camry turns out to be the perfect cruiser for us.  Even fully loaded, which I assure you it was, the car was agile, comfy, and so powerful that I liked the two lane highways best - passing cars with this Camry is another fine reminder of the Harley.  And it still gave us better than 30 mpg.  What a deal.



Here's IRIE where she spent the Summer in dry storage.  The great cover that Hector made for us in La Paz last year worked outstanding.  Underneath, she was pretty clean and definitely protected from the Summer sun.  I wonder if any of the power boat germs from the fishing boat next in the lineup rubbed off?






Highway boat


We were four days in the work yard sanding and painting IRIE's underwater parts. Then, on the 7th of Nov she took to the highway for the trip to the marina where we've been recomissioning since.


It's too bad you can't see beyond the snapshot here.  It's really pretty bizarre looking.




I had all the good intentions for updating the blog back on the 18th when the above was written, but one thing after another..........   today is the 23rd.  Last night we dined on big fat very fresh shrimp in a stir fry with no dressing or gravy but rum cake for dessert.  Ummm.  We knew it was Thanksgiving though, thanks to a skype video phone call with Jenifer and Kristen and Elan the day before.  I suspect C will have something to say about that, so I'll just move on.

We've had a real mix of weather here.  Some days are so hot and humid by 10:30 that we just want to crawl into a shady spot and hide.  Other days, mostly the ones with clouds, have been downright near perfect, even for working.


This afternoon we're taking it easy.  The list is now very short, so while I'm typing, C is enjoying the other side of the cabin. 

We'll be having a meeting of the minds this afternoon with Greg and Janis from s/v Gitana, but I'm pretty sure we're going to sail out of San Carlos on Sunday for the Baja on the other side of the Sea.  It will be about a hundred miles (20 hours) on an overnight cruise with a near full moon.  Should be outstanding as the wind promises to be quiet.  We look forward to living at anchor again as we bounce down the coast to La Paz probably two weeks away.  Until then, there will be little or no internet, but I promise to get some shots of the beautiful anchorages we'll be enjoying.  E

Monday, March 12, 2012

More San Carlos

Gilberto & Gustavo stripping varnish
Ready for the trip to dry land

Leaving water behind

Highway boat?

San Carlos Marina Seca ( dry )
The days are counting down!  We had hoped to "hitch" a ride from someone travelling by car to Tuscon AZ but the weather seems to be keeping people returning to San Carlos waiting in a holding pattern on the other side of the sea.  So, we will be travelling by bus on Thursday night (do any of you remember our last bus trip??) to Tuscon AZ where we will be catching a flight to Medford (via Phoenix & Denver).  I have been promised that the bus will be luxury ride with movies in English, bathrooms that can be used & best of all seats that really sit up!  We also get to skip the every 2 hour inspection routine by the "Federalies".  Yahoo. 


Well, a lot has happened in the few days since Claudia wrote the above.  We're home!!

Preparing a boat for dry storage in San Carlos is a lot more involved than what we had to do to leave Sojourner in La Paz.  San Carlos/Guaymas is a lot hotter in Summer, and being a dry (that is, dirt) yard, there were a few new hazards to prepare for. Fine dust that will invade any opening, piece of hardware, or line left exposed.  And a new variety of bugs such as scorpions that will crawl into and nest in thru hulls and such.  And then there is the heat.  We had to be very careful about what we left aboard and where we left it.  Things like some canned foods have been known to explode.  And, any unsecured food left behind would be a magnet for the bugs. 

We had a full boat cover made for IRIE in La Paz which we hope will protect her from the wind and the dust.  And we carefully plugged every thru hull with kitchen scrubbies to keep the bugs out.  We spent the better part of each day in the San Carlos Marina making the preparations so that once we were out of the water there would be mostly just fitting the cover left to do.

In our favor this year, since we are not trying to sell IRIE, we didn't have to remove all our personal stuff.  That had been a BIG job before.  I don't even want to think about doing that on this boat!

Anyway, as you can see in the pictures, IRIE had to become a "Highway Boat" to make the 1/2 mile trip to the storage area.  They floated us onto a flatbed trailer with padded hydraulic arms that held the boat upright, then a front end loader type tractor pushed us on down the road.  We felt like quite the attraction, though in about a month, this scene will be repeated a few times every day. 


San Carlos Marina Hotel courtyard
The bus ride was OK.  Comfortable seats for the 7 hour ride which included one Federal inspection in Mexico and one hour for US Customs.  Compared to the 19 hour ride we did two years ago, well, I bet you can guess.  Even the flights went mostly on schedule, though, I dream of never having to spend another minute in an airport.

Well, as you know, our blog here will likely become pretty quiet for the Summer,  but, even though there is no schedule, we have a lot planned for the next sailing season:  A train ride to 9,000feet to see the Copper Canyon, sailing to Mazatlan and maybe Puerto Vallarta, back across to La Paz for Carnival, then up the Baja again and back across the Sea to San Carlos for Summer storage.

Monday, February 27, 2012

San Carlos

Motorsailing to Santo Domingo

Hola from San Carlos, Sonora, Mexico.  We got here yesterday, a day earlier than we planned  -that weather thing again.  What a great place!  We took a dinghy ride around and took some pics. We have from now until March 7th to get IRIE all ready for the dry storage here which will be very HOT and dusty.  The list has been getting longer each day instead of shorter.  Right now she's getting a spa treatment by a couple of locals.  Body wash and nails buffed and polished. Looking good!

We've managed to visit three local bars/restaraunts so far - all good - and met up with old friends from s/v Circe who we played volleyball with in La Paz a couple years ago.  So much to do, and so little time.  We dedicate ourselves to boat work until mid afternoon each day, then it's time to enjoy ourselves.




Reach out and touch some...
Escorted into Bahia Conception


Hitchhiking to Mulege

From the dinghy in San Carlos
This shot was supposed to be posted after the next one as that would be the way it actually happened, but either way, pretty fun time.
San Carlos harbor entrance


















There were probably 20 dolphin playing around us here in Bahia Conception.  Sorry I couldn't get a better picture of it all.








No one had a working telephone in the little bay we anchored in (el Burro) so we had to hitchhike to Mulege about 16 miles away for supplies.  This was a new experience to say the least!  And yes, we did find a taxi to bring us back.








San Carlos is an exceptionally beautiful place with all sorts of rocks and caves, islands and bluffs, bays and mountains, and homes to match. A small town with a large percentage of Americans in residence.  Most of the locals speak some English which sure makes it easier for us.  It's easy to see why people like it here.

The marina is very nice, but at California prices, it should be.  Yet, the dry storage facility is really quite reasonable at about 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of putting up a boat in La Paz or other ports.  That's one of the main reasons we're here.

So, it's back to work for now.

E
View from the Yacht Club

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Northbound

Anchorage at San Juanico
Loreto from about 4 miles out
More San Juanico
Cruiser's "Shrine?"
This guy will do anything to get his picture on the blog
Fifteen days since we left La Paz, and eleven magnificent anchorages.  What can I say!!

Something has to make up for little or no internet availability, and these places have done it all.  

If you've been receiving the SPOT notices, you know that we've been taking only rather short hops up the coast.  The most recent was a scant 8 miles and the longest has been about 40 miles.  All told, I think we've only covered a couple hundred miles, but we've been in all kinds of scenery and had plenty of good times.

About a week ago, we met Greg and Janis from s/v Gitana who actually sailed aboard IRIE when she was owned by Pete and Sue Simpson and known as "Pipe Dream".  That was in the early nineties and included two separate cruises in and around the Mexican Riviera.  The more I learn about the history of this boat, the more I appreciate her.  And she continues to be good to us.  We're actually getting pretty good at anchoring too.  

Presently, we're at Playa Burro in Bahia Conception.  A totally magnificent place for scenery, with rock islands and quiet little bays everywhere.  This is the home of a fellow named Geary, an American who wakes up at about 3:30 every morning so he can give cruisers who listen to the Sonrisa net on Single Sideband Radio an accurate weather update.  

Every ting is irie, as they say.  C and I are doing well.  It's been a cool Winter for Mexico, but not altogether bad.  It has been very windy, which, of course, compounds the cool temps and makes doing a good job of anchoring all the more important.  But overall, a good time is being had!

Next on the agenda is the 80 mile crossing of the Sea from where we are to San Carlos on the mainland where we will prep, haul, and store IRIE for the Summer.  It looks like this Friday may be a good day/night to make this trip.  Not locked in yet, but you'll see the SPOT notice indicating that we're on the way.  Where's that extra crew when we need him/her?  

Once we get to San Carlos, we figure a week or so to relax and enjoy ourselves get the lay of the land, prep IRIE, and get ourselves a ride to Tuscon where we can fly home to Medford.  Hoping to get home to Grants Pass mid March.  

OK, that's it until we can get online again sometime in San Carlos.  

See ya,

E


Fine dining in Evaristo

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Lovin La Paz

I'm not sure why it's been so difficult to write for the blog lately.  It's not like we've crawled into a hole and been doing nothing.  And there has certainly been no lack of requests for something new to appear on this page.  Plus, the need to post something has been on our list for some time now. I don't know, but since today is something of a sick day, here goes.

Yes, I'm getting over a cold, and Claudia is in the full blown sneezing and sniffling stage.  It has slowed us down some, yet the computer still stares at us and beckons.  Today is another like so many here this season.  The morning started out cool in low 50's, but it is sunny and very promising.  We listen to the AM cruisers net on the VHF radio to find out what is lost and what has been found, who is looking for what service or repair in La Paz, who has come to and who is leaving the fair city, what activities are on for the day, who has what items to sell or trade, and what the weather is expected to be like.  It's sort of like a soap opera.  There's rarely anything actually new or exciting, yet everyone listens just in case.  There is a certain sort of fellowship too.  The net is best enjoyed in the cockpit with a coffee.

Then, as C was feeling poorly, I dinghied in to have coffee on Iver's boat and catch up on the local gossip. On returning, I saw our new neighbor in his dinghy still tied to his boat, so I went over to say hi.  We talked for a while and decided that even though our boats were anchored a bit close to each other, there was probably no cause for concern.  He turns out to be an interesting fellow who has been sailing in the Sea since the mid 90's and we suggest that a meeting later in the day over a couple beers is in order.

On returning to IRIE, it's time for me to do some sanding on the outside teak handrails.  We're sanding down all the exterior varnish in prep for new.  By the time an hour is up, the wind is picking up and I'm getting cold, so I head for the shelter of the cockpit.  Then Bruce from s/v Juce arrives by dinghy and we talk about possible solutions to a chain locker problem I'm trying to resolve.  We talk about going to town together for some lunch, but the whitecaps outside tell me that I'd have to be willing to get wet to make the dinghy ride in and back, so I'll probably not go this time.  In fact, I'll probably not even go visit my neighbor later for the same reason.  So, I go below and read for a while, nap a bit, and then finally, turn on the computer, pray for an internet hookup, and begin writing this.

It seems so lame, having an attitude about the weather.  The sun is shining, it's 70 degrees and we're on the water, IRIE is proving to be all that we hoped she would, so who could complain?  Why don't we just change the subject.

See Maxine!!  It's taken her a while, but now and then we get to see her scoping out life outside the box.  It's good to see her enjoying herself again, and I sense that she's excited about our upcoming journey. You may recall that the reason she was given to us in the first place was because of her need for travel.






As we've been at anchor for about four weeks now, I suppose it's time to write something abut that.  The word that most comes to mind is private.  Not the running around naked on deck kind of private, - it's too cold for that anyway.  No, it's the privacy you get when you simply leave the hustle and bustle of the boatyard / dockside environment.  Folks on the dock whether just wandering around or doing business or on their way up to empty garbage and take a shower are no longer able to interrupt.  Even the simple distraction of the motion or the noise of daily life at the dock is mostly gone.  Maybe a better one word description would be peaceful.  It's been four weeks now since we've heard the boat boys cleaning the big fishing boats with their loud Mexican music / karoke going on.  And it's also a lot harder for friends to stop by for a drink or to say hi too.  Therein lies the other side of the coin.

To sum it up, from my point of view at least, we really enjoy being at anchor.  But in La Paz, where there's so much to do in town, and we have so many friends around,  I believe we'll buy a dock in the future.  That way, when we're anchored somewhere else in a quiet little bay with no one around, we can really enjoy the solitude.  Something we expect to be doing a lot of in the near future.

Junk sailing by in the anchorage at La Paz
Like everything else, the dinghy has it's ups and downs too.  For the first two weeks out here we were in the far side of the anchorage.  That is an area somewhat protected from wind and waves, but maybe a half mile from town and the docks.  While there, we had the 15hp outboard mounted and on those occasions when the sea was flat, we could make that dinghy fly.  At least it seemed like it.  Only once did I open it up all the way, and that was scary fast. Otherwise it was really fun zipping around here and there.  We wanted a hot rod dinghy, and I'd say we got one.  

Another nice surprise has been our TV antenna up in the rigging.  We bring in six Mexican stations clearly.  No, we don't watch much Mexican television, though it's pretty weird to see the Simpsons talking Spanish.  We have been able to watch the NFL every Sunday though.  A bit of home here on board in Mexico.  We're talking about having a Super Bowl party just before heading North in the Sea.

Speaking of heading North, that is still the plan for February.  We have several hundred miles to go against the prevailing winds hoping to reach San Carlos on the mainland around the first of March.  We'll try to post to the blog here once more before we leave, but there will be very little or no internet once we do.  Claudia will keep you posted with the SPOT when we're travelling as she did on the trip down here.  And there are two cities on the way where we should be able to hook up, but this is still the Baja.    E